Illustration by Riccardo Vecchio

Holy Basil
149 Second Ave., nr. 9th St.; 212-460-5557
An oenophilic regular composed the savvy, food-friendly list— a rare find in cheap Thai joints—big on fruity Rieslings and floral Gewürztraminers, matches made in Penang-curry heaven.

Via Emilia
240 Park Ave. S., nr. 19th St.; 212-505-3072
Fizzy, chilled Lambruscos are a point of pride for the Emilia-Romagnan chef-owner, who recommends them with cured meats, gnocco fritto, and the rich pastas of his region.

The Mermaid Inn
96 Second Ave., nr. 6th St.; 212-674-5870
The bright idea behind charging cost plus $15 for every bottle is to encourage diners to keep drinking. It works.

Landmarc
179 W. Broadway, nr. Leonard St.; 212-343-3883
The multitude of half-bottles makes it easy—and affordable— to match wines with courses, and the lack of wines by the glass means you’ll never have to guess how long any particular bottle’s been open.

Sette Enoteca e Cucina
207 Seventh Ave., at 3rd St., Park Slope, Brooklyn; 718-499-7767
Venti per venti—twenty bottles at $20 apiece—is a nice gimmick and a great incentive to try something new.

Related:

• Articles by Rob Patronite | Robin Raisfeld
• Table of Contents: August 8, 2005 issue of New York | Subscribe!