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This Hell's Kitchen Peruvian hole in the wall has no liquor license, no pisco sours, and no rotisserie chickens. But it does have sublime ceviche: tidbits of sea bass, whole shrimp, and squid in an expert lime-juice marinade. The caliber of the ceviche augurs well for the rest of the menu, which shrinks considerably during the week, so go on Saturday. And don't leave without ordering something yellow—one of those national specialties suffused with spicy, marigold-yellow aji pepper sauce. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Ceviche de pescado, $10; aji de gallina, $12; chichi morada, $2