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This venue is closed.

For high-maintenance New Yorkers who feed on Nobu’s buzz or Japonica’s relentless energy, walking up the steps to Honmura An is a humbling experience. While the management doesn't care about your entrance clout at the Park, it all too obviously plays favorites. Most emphatic, however, is its sanctimoniousness about soba and udon noodles. Still, you won't be disappointed--unless you don't take the menu seriously when it claims that a dish is built around a single giant shrimp. Bring a small appetite, or a fat wallet. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Tori dango, $9; soba gaki, $12; nabeyaki udon, $22; tenju, $26