1. Anthony’s
Mrs. Buglione, partner Sal Buglione’s diminutive mother, takes over the kitchen on Sundays; her Sunday sauce with meatballs, braciole, and pork spareribs over rigatoni is $16.
426A Seventh Ave., nr. 14th St., Park Slope, Brooklyn; 718-369-8315

2. Ama
Like any good Italian son, chef Turibio Girardi follows his Puglian mother’s recipe for the Sunday sauce; it’s served with cavatelli-like caputini, part of a $30 four-course fixed price dinner.
48 Macdougal St., nr. W. Houston St.; 212-358-1707

3. Nonna
Four calorific courses from arancini to zeppole, including a heaping helping of rigatoni with Sunday sauce; $19.95.
520 Columbus Ave., at 85th St.; 212-579-3194

Related:

• Archive: “Food Features”
• Articles by Rob Patronite | Robin Raisfeld
• Table of Contents: December 19, 2005 issue of New York | Subscribe!