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Prosperous ethnic Russians seeking the conviviality of home congregate right on Brighton Beach’s boardwalk, at the Tatiana Restaurant and Nightclub. Etched glass panels, burgundy carpeting, brass railings, marble panels, and ceiling paintings are emblematic of the sophisticated style, though weather permitting, most patrons prefer the outdoor seating area, where they can enjoy the salty breezes and watch the promenading crowds. The menu is vaguely Russian, and definitely eclectic. There's an extensive sushi and sashimi selection; notable are the melt-in-your mouth butterfish and the salmon tartar with red caviar. Soups like Ukrainian and spinach borsht are tangy with sour cream; harcho, a Georgian beef soup, and solyanka, a Ukrainian sour soup made with pickles and brine, are meaty and rich. Fish such as trout, branzini, and flounder are offered fried, whereas striped sea bass, mahi-mahi, tuna, and sturgeon get fried or get a simple grilling. Lamb entrées, like kabobs and chops, are grilled and pleasingly tender. Chicken gets more elaborate treatment, as in the chicken cutlet Kiev, which resembles a miniature football that's been golden-fried. Buried within is molten, dill-inflected butter. It seems unlikely that many people ate this luxuriously in the old country. — Michael Anstendig

Weekend nights are highlighted by a Las Vegas-styled revue with a cast of 20, complete with musical numbers by a 12-piece live band with eight singers. The cover charge is waived for dinner patrons; reservations are required.

Smoked fish platter, $27.95; chicken cutlet kiev, $21.95; lamb chop "karski," $26.95

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