Profile

L’Express proves that a French bistro in New York can both cater to a mainstream clientele (it’s smack in the middle of the Park Avenue South party zone) and maintain some kind of discipline in the kitchen. Cocktails are strong and classic; beers include several lush, complex French and Belgian brews; and the atmosphere plumbs our collective memory of brasseries past without descending (too deeply) into stereotype. Above all, the menu is uncompromising, with Lyonnais specialties—pig’s feet, blood sausage, two kinds of tripe—sitting right next to less-challenging fare like steak au poivre, salads, and grilled salmon. Speaking of neighbors, yours will be well-dressed veterans of the Odeon, model types sipping apple martinis at the bar, and Francophiles delighted to discover that this place is open 24 hours a day. — Matt Gross

Sat.—Sun., 10 a.m.—4 p.m.

Note
Reservations are only accepted on weekdays for parties of 5 or more.