The Cut

8/28/08

Dress Code

8/28/08

6:28 PM

Barack Obama Will Wear a Union-Made Suit for His Big Speech Tonight

That's what a 33-inch waist looks like.Photo: Getty Images

Like us, you're dying to know what Barack Obama will wear when he makes his big speech at the Democratic National Convention tonight. The Chicago Tribune reports that he'll wear "a classic two-button, navy, merino wool and cashmere suit from Chicago-based Hartmarx Corp." The company told the paper they even sent two tailors to his house to measure him for the bespoke suit, which took four days to make. Hartmarx makes the Hickey Freeman label, but Obama is going with Hart Schaffner Marx label, made by union workers. That's right — it's fashion with a message. As the Huffington Post says, "Supporting good wages, respect at the workplace and the kind of good jobs that keep a country healthy never go out of fashion." (Or maybe he read about Luci Baines Johnson's fashion advice to Jenna Bush: Make sure the wedding dress has a union label.) Will McCain follow suit? We'll find out next week.

The next doll of the fashion world? [Chicago Tribune]
Obama will accept nomination in suit made by union members [HuffPo]

More: Dress Code »Tags: barack obama, menswear, suits, unions

Model Tracker

8/28/08

6:00 PM

‘Project Runway’ Models Work Ten Hour Days for No Pay

Elena AbetePhoto: Courtesy of Bravo

Modeling is not an easy career path. Elena Abete is just one girl who proves that. She was Daniel's model on this season of Project Runway and got the boot along with him. She reveals in the Austin American Statesman she got no pay for doing Runway for which she worked ten-hour days. And that time hardly involves hanging out with the designers. "The only time we got with them is in the work room," she tells the Statesmen. "The producers kept us very separated."

Abete had given up on New York and moved home to Austin, Texas, after a falling-out with her agency. She returned when she got called to do Runway but is now back in Austin, where she works as a hostess at a local Tex-Mex joint. Though she was doing okay as a model and appears in September's Cosmo Girl, she says didn't like New York or modeling:

More: Model Tracker »Tags: elena abete, models, project runway, reality tv, skinny models

Video Look Book

8/28/08

5:20 PM

When Marvel Owen Blacked Out, He Almost Ruined His Best Accessory

When we went for a romp in Williamsburg with our Video Look Book cameras, retailer Owen Marvel's designer threads caught our eye. His suspenders are J. Lindeberg, his tie is from Prada, and his pants are from Reiss, where he used to work. Both his shoes and shirt are from Marc Jacobs, which he got for free when he worked there (take note, job seekers). He also sports a spider ring on his pinkie finger, which he would have liked to wear on his middle finger, but it got all bent out of shape one night when he blacked out so it doesn't fit anymore (no, he doesn't know how). And we thought we were the only people with that problem! Watch and find out what his favorite vintage store is.

More: Video Look Book »Tags: j. lindeberg, marc jacobs, prada, reiss, videos, vintage, williamsburg

Beauty Marks

8/28/08

4:40 PM

Bidens Tap Bobbi Brown; Sarah Larson Wants Implants?

Photo: Courtesy of Shiseido Maquillage

MAKEUP
• Democratic National Convention delegate Bobbi Brown has been asked to do the makeup for the women in the Biden family. Politics and beauty — like cheese and crackers. [WWD]

• Shiseido Maquillage tapped Christopher Kane for its new Mode Mix fall collection featuring five distinct looks — stylish, modern, active, romantic, and lovely. Agyness Deyn and Japanese celebs Anne Watanabe, Chiaki Kuriyama, Misaki Ito, and Yuri Ebihara illustrate the five looks in the campaign, all of which are entirely wearable. [Makeup for Life]

FRAGRANCE
• YSL Beauté plans to launch B, a woody floral fragrance for the Boucheron brand created by Ursula Wandel of Givaudan. [Cosmetic News]

More: Beauty Marks »Tags: advertising, agyness deyn, beauty, fragrance, george clooney, makeup, plastic surgery, robert rey, sarah larson, skin

Run Through

8/28/08

4:00 PM

Dear ‘Daily News’: The Wichcraft Coffee Guy Is Not One of ‘Fashion's Most Powerful’

You tell 'em, Anna! Marc is not a No. 3.Photo: Getty Images

New York's media outlets are keenly aware that Fashion Week starts — egad! — one week from tomorrow. They're also aware publishing something to hype it is probably a good idea. The Daily News, for example, published a list of "Fashion's 50 Most Powerful." Now, we understand that churning out a daily newspaper is grueling and time-consuming and that getting a handle on Fashion Week while the Democratic National Convention is going on is a lot to manage. But still, the paper could have put just a touch more time and thought into this list, which is so glaringly off. We can't argue with putting Anna Wintour at No. 1. And though he's helping to change Gap's image, we're not sure we'd put Patrick Robinson before Marc Jacobs. After the jump we list the people on the list we take the most issue with.

The Witchcraft coffee guy should not be above Ralph Lauren. »

More: Run Through »Tags: anna wintour, carolina herrera, christy turlington, donna karan, francisco costa, linda evangelista, marc jacobs, michael kors, naomi campbell, oscar de la renta, patrick robinson, ralph lauren, tim gunn, tory burch

Cult of Personality

8/28/08

2:30 PM

Why Michael Kors’s Business Is Booming

Michael Kors and friends.Photo: Getty Images

In three years, Michael Kors's sales are expected to reach $1 billion in the U.S. alone, predicts John Idol, chief executive of the Kors company. And that's not just because of his design skills or Project Runway, which pulls in about 5 percent of the company's gross. In her profile of the designer in today's Times, Ruth La Ferla notes that Kors gets to know merchants and sales associates in stores that carry his clothes, like Bergdorf Goodman, and makes personal appearances at trunk shows to rub elbows with clients. Just a few reasons his sales have increased an impressive 50 percent and then some at Bergdorf alone in the last three years. But what we wish La Ferla's piece highlighted more is that Michael Kors's strategy is so effective because of his personality! He's just as delightful off camera as he is on camera. (See for yourselves.) And how many famous people can you say that about these days? Certainly not, say, Tyra Banks.

But Kors also persevered when times were tough. In the nineties, when the world turned to grunge (us included), one of his big investors left and Kors had to file for Chapter 11. And later, critics panned his fall 2000 collection. But none of this stopped Michael from making or selling clothes. So we can certainly understand why he looked so frustrated when Keith complained about his chicken metaphor on Project Runway last night.

Michael Kors (but You Knew That) [NYT]
Earlier: ‘Runway’ Recap: In Which Keith Loses It
Video: Studio Visit With Michael Kors

More: Cult of Personality »Tags: bergdorf goodman, michael kors, project runway

Model Tracker

8/28/08

1:45 PM

Meet the New Guy: Matt Gordon

Matt Gordon for Tommy Hilfiger fall 2008, photographed by Dewey HicksPhoto: Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger

Alberta native and face of Tommy Hilfiger Matt Gordon got his big break last year when he signed a two-season contract with Gucci alongside Natasha Poly. When that expired this spring, he booked work with just about everyone. This summer he appeared on the runways of Versace and Hermès. Karl Lagerfeld couldn't resist Gordon and his come-hither eyes either and specially requested him for a sexy Numéro Homme spread he shot with Claudia Schiffer. Naturally, photographer Steven Meisel wanted a piece of him also and shot the model for Pringle of Scotland's simple and elegant fall ad campaign.

Model Profile: Matt Gordon

For more runway gods and goddesses, check out our Model Manual, your complete guide to the pretty people.

More: Model Tracker »Tags: claudia schiffer, gucci, hermes, karl lagerfeld, mario testino, matt gordon, models, natasha poly, numero homme, pringle of scotland, steven meisel, tommy hilfiger, versace

Body Issues

8/28/08

1:00 PM

Step Right Up for Your Free Eating-Disorder Brochure at Fashion Week

Morgane Dubled at Christian Dior CouturePhoto: imaxtree

The CFDA shall not relent in its quest for an effective way to ensure fashion models stay healthy. Not only did they hold a panel discussion on model health in June and send out letters to designers and casting agents urging them to follow the CFDA's model-health guidelines this Fashion Week, but they'll also set up special "health initiative booths" in the tents at Bryant Park. In the lobby and backstage. The Renfrew Center, an eating-disorder treatment facility, will help with the booths, which will offer information on the CFDA's guidelines and "an informational brochure on eating disorders, the signs and symptoms." That's brochure, singular.

"[W]e will have a clinician on site who is going to be there to answer specific questions, provide referrals and basically perform overall outreach to any person who might be interested in treatment or may be worried about someone they are working with,” Steven Kolb, executive director of the CFDA, told WWD. And if you don't have an eating disorder or don't want to discuss your concerns about the person/people you know with eating disorders or just don't have room for that brochure in your purse with all those free trade papers, you can simply sign a paper saying you support the CFDA's health guidelines.

We bet these are going to get more foot traffic than the open bars or the booths with the free macaroons.

CFDA to Set Up Health Initiative Booths During Fashion Week [WWD]
Related: CFDA Panel on Skinny Models: Coco Rocha on Her Struggle

More: Body Issues »Tags: cfda, eating disorders, models, new york fashion week spring 2009, skinny models

Run Through

8/28/08

12:16 PM

‘Runway’ Recap: In Which Keith Loses It

We just love the way Tim looks in this picture.Photo: Courtesy of Bravo

All the designers looked weary and miserable on Project Runway last night, but Keith is the King of Sulk, utterly distraught from landing in the bottom two last week. He says he wants to change the way the world dresses — if only someone else wanted him to.

In this week's challenge, Heidi gives the designers a midtown address and tells them to go to the rooftop. Rooftop? Time to freak out! Blayne is scared and speculates they’re designing for someone famous, “exclusive, rooftop style.” Someone else floats the possibility of a party. Yes, a party that’s going on at 8 a.m. is totally Tim Gunn’s scene.

The address turns out to be a parking lot full of a bunch of Saturns. Just as sexy as that party they were expecting! Tim, wearing a festive bright-pink shirt, tells the designers they have to make dresses out of car parts — everyone freaks out. Again. How ever are they going to take the cars apart? Lest they deface a sponsor, the car parts are waiting for them inside the vehicles. So they rush to fill their grocery carts with seat belts, floor mats, carburetors, headlights, and the like. Everyone goes right for the seat belts to make their garments. Kenley sees this and smartly decides not to use them. Stella, who ought to rock out on a challenge that involves working with thick heavy materials and hammering, decides to make something “pretty.” Sigh.

More: Run Through »Tags: heidi klum, michael kors, project runway, reality tv, television, tim gunn

Loose Threads

8/28/08

10:30 AM

Jil Sander to Launch Beachwear; Tom Ford Fund-raises for Obama

Rockin' the pantsuit like she means it.Photo: Getty Images

• Jil Sander will launch innerwear in 2009 and beachwear in 2010. Joy! [WWD]

• Tom Ford is co-hosting a fund-raiser for Barack Obama in L.A. at which Michelle Obama will rub elbows with fashion- and entertainment-industry types. [WWD]

• Charles Nolan on Hillary Clinton: "She doesn’t care about the significance so many attach to her fashion style. Ultimately, in a pure society, we wouldn’t care either. It shouldn’t matter. She wants to tell the right story. Oscar de la Renta has done good by her and she was smart enough to understand that while she was in the White House, it was really important.” [WWD]

• A big gold statue of Kate Moss — the largest in the world since those made in ancient Egypt — is on display in the British Museum. Moss is posed in a provocative yoga position, cigarette not included. [British Vogue]

• Sheryl Crow is adding boots, belts, and bags to her fashion line, Bootheel Trading Co., as well as a children's line for next fall. Yes! Now we can complete our Sheryl Crow look, down to the shoes! [WWD]

Anna Wintour gets snippy. »

More: Loose Threads »Tags: anna wintour, barack obama, blue and cream, charles nolan, giorgio armani, hillary clinton, jil sander, kate moss, michelle obama, mike albo, models, naomi campbell, nike, sheryl crow, steven alan, tom ford

Fashion Yearbook

8/28/08

9:45 AM

U.S. Open Players Step Up Their Fashion Game

Maybe Roger has a delivery for Anna?Photo: Getty Images

The U.S. Open is in full swing (ha), and since tennis is Anna Wintour's favorite sport, her omnipresent bob has put pressure on the players to dress well. That's how we'd feel, anyhow. Thankfully, this year's players, including Anna's man crush, Roger Federer, are looking quite fashion-forward at Arthur Ashe Stadium. Cathy Horyn, however, was unimpressed with Federer's brown outfit: "A UPS man on center court? Maybe it’s my television or my copy of the Times, but it seems an awkward shade in that context." We agree, though we thought he looked more like a garbage man during a summer shift. Judgments continue after the jump.

With the Williams sisters! »

More: Fashion Yearbook »Tags: cathy horyn, roger federer, serena williams, sports, tennis, venus williams

Fashion Calendar

8/28/08

9:00 AM

Events and Sales: 30 Percent Off Cynthia Rowley; 70 Percent Off Intermix Ends

EVENTS
• Check out Sue Devitt's new fall makeup. The Seaspray Collection consists of eight pieces inspired by the Great Barrier Reef with vibrant colors and ocean tones. Barneys, 660 Madison Ave., nr. 61st St. (212-833-2680); noon–7.

SALES
STARTING TODAY
• Body by Brooklyn Spa & Lounge is offering a deal on their delectable, fruity body scrubs; the Citrus Splash was $82 for 30 minutes but is now $70. Use of the Wet Lounge is complimentary. Through 9/15. 275 Park Ave., nr. Washington St., Clinton Hill, Brooklyn (718-923-9400); Sun. and Mon., Wed. and Thurs. (10–9), Fri. and Sat. (10–10).

• Enjoy 30 percent off everything from Cynthia Rowley’s online boutique (including new and already discounted items) by typing code "DCCR" at checkout. Click here to browse the goods.

More: Fashion Calendar »Tags: sales, shopping

8/27/08

Model Tracker

8/27/08

5:02 PM

Racially Diverse Runways During Fashion Week? Maybe!

Arlenis and MagdalenaPhoto: Courtesy of Marilyn Agency; Getty Images

Daniel Peddle is regarded as a top casting director in the fashion industry. He's cast runway shows for 3.1 phillip lim, Alexander Queen's McQ, C'N'C' Costume National, Thakoon, YSL Homme, and Catherine Malandrino, among others. Now he's currently busy casting for Fashion Week, which is just over a week away (!!!). What does he look for? He tells Models.com he likes girls with "amazing personalities — who are well read, articulate and fun." His favorites include Magdalena Frackowiak and newcomer Arlenis Sosa. He says two looks are predominating this season for runway models:

We really like the tomboy look — not necessarily masculine in their face but they have sort of hardness to them while maintaining their elegance.
Another thing this season is trying to discern from all the girls out there the ones that are ethnically ambiguous. Girls and boys that have faces that you can’t just put in a certain place or race or geography. I think it’s very helpful to see those types of faces in our conflicted world because you can see that we’re still evolving as humans and they are the results of people willing to go beyond the socially constructed notions around race … With the Internet and the way that everyone is so connected now it’s not something you can overlook anymore. I don’t think it’s possible to do a modern show and have it be all blondes. I understand that sometimes a designer has an aesthetic that dictates something like that and of course we’re going to work with them to achieve their goals but personally I don’t find that to be a very modern statement.

And good old androgyny lives on. But if this "ethnically ambiguous" look Peddle speaks of is so hot right now, could that mean there's more room for racial diversity on the runways? We hope the fashion industry surprises us this time around.

New Generation: Daniel Peddle [Of the Minute/Models.com]

More: Model Tracker »Tags: arlenis sosa, casting, magdalena frackowiak, models, new york fashion week spring 2009

Passing Judgment

8/27/08

4:18 PM

Video: The ‘America’s Next Top Model’ Institute of Technology and Glaminator 11.0

One of those weaves must have grown roots into Tyra Banks's brain because she has taken the next season of America's Next Top Model to a whole new level. Above you can watch a preview of the makeover segment of cycle eleven, which premieres in one week. They're on a Star Trek set, and the ~~models~~contestants and Jay Manuel and Miss Jay are wearing spaceship costumes. Oh, excuse us — did we say Star Trek? We meant the Top Model Institute of Technology. Miss Jay says, "Here at the Top Model Institute of Technology we build better models." Manuel tells the girls they're going to stuff them each in the "Glaminator 11.0," enter their data and find out how to make them a better model. It's all kind of frightening. But rather than being bizarre in a "isn't Tyra so fun and wacky!" kind of way, it's scary — like in a "I can't believe someone thought about this enough to actually come up with it" kind of way. Oh, what does cycle twelve have in store?

ANTM 11.01 Sneak Peek: Semi-Final Make-overs [Top Model Gossip]

More: Passing Judgment »Tags: americas next top model, jay manuel, miss jay, reality tv, tyra banks

Beauty Marks

8/27/08

3:00 PM

Jennifer Aniston Shuns Plastic Surgery; I Am Queen Imminent

Jennifer Aniston and her less deviated septum.Photo: Getty Images

PLASTIC SURGERY
• Jennifer Aniston said she would never get plastic surgery. That one nose job she had to fix her deviated septum to help her breathe easily while sleeping was enough. [ONTD]

FRAGRANCE
• P. Diddy's busy promoting his I Am King fragrance, but an I Am Queen fragrance is also in the works. The man knows what women want. [Moment/NYT]

• Fabien Baron, the man behind the Interview redesign, will design the packaging for Zac Posen's new fragrance. [Fashion Week Daily]

• Benetton is releasing Essence of United Colors of Benetton Woman and Man, a pair of scents described as fruity and floral. [Cosmetic News]

MAKEUP
• This shows a somewhat unpleasant-looking picture of a girl with lipstick on her teeth. The blogger wants you to answer the poll: Would you tell someone if she had lipstick on her teeth even though it's so embarrassing to point out? With issues like these, who needs the political conventions? [BellaSugar]

SKIN
• Accessories designer Solomon Chase partnered with visual artist David Toro to create FACE, a line of facial products. And by products, we mean little stick-on glow-in-the-dark triangles and furry bindis. [Dazed Digital]